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Can you run your test with a 2/0 cable instead of 8 away. I would like to see if the MRBF will hold up to AIC

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Hahahahhhhhahaha

Can you run fuses of the same type and size to increase IAC? Trying to learn more about fusing battery banks. I am looking at upgrading my battery bank. Most likely going to be around 20k WH at 24 volts. So I'm guessing a Class T fuse but even than I'm not sure. I might end up going with LTO cells and I've seen 45 AH LTO cells with a short circuit current around 4000 amps so a larger LTO battery bank could hit some serious numbers.

And, now again with S.I. units, please.

Do you necessarily have to do a better grounding as well or just the positive side?

I got so sick to death of idiosyncratic electronic arguments between my solar controller and my external alternator regulator, such that I put relays to disconnect solar charging when the ignition is on. What point in some trickling 50-300 watts of sun when the alternator is pumping in 1800 watts under way. Use "normally closed" relays on BOTH the PV input negative line AND the output common earth to the battery to put solar regulator to sleep when motoring.

Will a 24 volt battery bank wiring setup last longer than a 12 volt battery bank setup?

What causes it to be ... like when the sun goes down and suddenly the battery bank voltage is dropping to below 12 Volts, but the rest of the time it seems fine? The voltage I'm getting on a battery bank is too low for new batteries. But I've been careful charging them and careful with the equipment. I don't understand why I'm getting such low voltage though...

Thanks for showing why these should never be used on a boat.

I am going to winterize on the hard this season. No problem - ill run the in-out bucket! Looking for some clarity on the hydro lock - obviously something I would like to prevent! Should I remove the hose before shutting down and let the engine run to drink it dry and then shut off?

It doesn't expand see the level in bottle about exact and gallon bottle filled like you buy it.

Your website and all of this information is fantastic, thank you. Im very curious, at what load would a flanged seacock fail. Presumably above 500lbs; how much tougher are the flanged seacocks than In Line Ball Valves

Saikil kitne .h

Thank you so much for this!!

Yy

So then, where can non-oem type people purchase the extra heavy wall thru hull fittings?

The ones I found on the shelf locally do not have the same thickness in the thru hulls

What ?

More than 2cm between thru hull and valve. Have to cut thread to make those fitting close each other.

What is an acceptable voltage for a fully charged batteries of these types ?

have you tested volt drop and thermal rise at 3/4 rated cap of fuse?

lame AF

You have a huge resistor in the circuit with all of that small wire. This test is meaningless.

You should look into charge voltages and battery temps.... there's a huge swing and it mattery

Shouldn't your amp meter be on the negative?

I appreciate the notion of independent testing, but that seacock is clearly not installed according to directions. This test was just a waste of a new mushroom thruhull.

Not as Described

Your comment (1:30), “it’s 4* above freezing” is not correct. At the beginning you showed 4*F, that is 28* BELOW freezing. If you were using the Celsius scale, 4* would be above freezing.

What happened? Is the squealing from a belt slip?

How about the non-OEM 93 seacock?

Interesting but the main reason is they allowed the wire to sit in oily bilge water or get exposed to oil. I dont have any welding cable on my boat. I did find some 'Locomotive cable' and used that to join negative battery posts to a large copper bus bar. But it will never sit in oily water or get sprayed with oil. It was also tinned fine strand, so interesting they did that when making the wire.

Excellent demonstration, even 300 amp fuse protects down to 8 gauge wire from shorts. I think the idea of smaller fuses downstream of a larger fuse on branch circuits is so they blow separate circuits and not have the entire circuit losing power (within reason regarding wire sizes, dont expect a 300 amp fuse to blow protecting a 12 gauge wire). But you know for fusing the entire starting bank of wires which may even have some 2 or 4 gauge wiring running every which way, 300 amps will protect all of those wires from catching fire. Glad you posted this common sense video.

I have a 50 year old Egg Harbor 37 unfused on the starter bank that has never had a short on the main wiring. I just added a 2 gauge 15 foot round trip to the generator for starting it from the main engine starter battery and decided to use a 300 amp ANL Blue sea fuse and holder before seeing this video. plan to run a short wire from starter bank positive to fuse holder, then from fuse holder to starter bank selector switch. That will fuse protect all the wires for all starters. And your video is exactly what I thought, the fuse will blow and the wire will be safe. This is an old MCCK 6500 watt and it cranks fine on the 2 gauge wire. That 2 gauge wire I saved from my other mid 60's Glastron which I cut up and the wire is still in good shape over 50 years old. None of the wires in my Eggharbor or very few, are tinned like new marine wires, but they are still ok. Egg used 2/0 wires for the engine starting circuit. Engines are 392 IH and always crank well. One thing that has helped the wires survive so long, they never get wet as the boat is a wooden cabin cruiser, no exterior wire exposure. To secure the starter wire run to gen, I used some plastic Carlon 1/2" conduit clamps screwed to the side of the wood stringers. Near the gen, I am going to use a 2 foot section of foam pipe insulation over the wires for some protection to their insulation as the wires are bent over the wood edge support on top of the water tank.

Do you think an inexpensive charge controller like the $30 "Battery Tender" Solar Controller can regulate a small 7 watt solar panel similar to the one you are testing in this video? This Charge Controller claims it can regulate 5-45 watts. Here is the controller I ordered... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q820UK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is it necessary to get engine warm first so the thermostat opens before using this?

R u still using these cell 8 years?

My unregulated 4.5w is keeping my battery above 15v all the time. It starts the car like a champ. When can I expect the 17 year old battery to be ruined? Before I added the panel, the battery was on its last legs and struggling to start the car. Now, it works like new. I checked with my hand, the battery was not warm. I didn't expect it to be since the non-optimally placed panel only pumps in around 60mA in bright sun. The sleeping car draws 20-30mA.

Just for the benefit of any viewers who may not fully understand. Because you are protecting the wire, you have to use a fuse smaller than the ampacity of the wire. This is not for preventing the wire from overheating in a short circuit. That is easy because the fuse blows right away. The problem is that you don't know what kind of load malfunction you may have. If the load is faulty and causes a slight overload current, the fuse must be sized to blow before the wire insulation melts or thermally degrades in some other way. With starters, though, the wire is probably a bit undersized because the starter doesn't run continuously. If there is a fuse you can use on the starter that will let you start the motor but doesn't blow when you need it, that is great. Even if the starter fuse is higher ampacity than the wire would normally be rated for. But I agree with everything in the video as it pertains to starters. Great video and thanks for actually showing the fuse blow!

How can the engine hydrolock using the seawater pump, honestly asking

euh... this is not the real condition. plz, see SV Panope anchor tests instead. ruclips.net/video/smgWTtFuk3U/видео.html

It amazes me that people aren't willing to spend $10-$20 for a charge controller. A basic Harbor Freight controller will do the trick, even with lifepo4 cells. It's not as efficient as MPPT but if you're just trying to maintain float - why not just invest a tiny bit more money into something that'll protect it? If the solar panel manufacturers say to use a controller for batteries - you should.

This would have been more convincing if you removed the solar panel and allowed us to watch the voltage of the battery.

I have this same batteries, but 60ah ones. I'm connected two groups 180ah to make two separate batteries with two separate BMS then connecting them to make 360ah. The highest terminal block they make is 300a, would this be alright for 360ah?

Great video, thanks.

Great video, thanks

Thanks, Great video. Nice labeling job on the conductors! Can you list out your test instruments & model#s. Once again Thanks!

Thanks for sharing this. It appears critical failure of the component's integrity (i.e., water would begin ingress) occurred prior to the 100% break at 404 lbs. - you can see a crack opening well before 404 lbs is reached. Deformation of the part begins almost immediately upon force being applied. Side Note: In the world of Information Technology an HTTP 404 Code means "Not Found". In this succinct demonstration - the manufacturer's Quality is "Not Found"

can i ask you a question my over charge limit is 15 volts on my 100 amp epever pro charge controller for seals agm battery option does that sound right two you.. if so what should it be...so that is the fail safe voltage is it will not charge past that for battery bank, does that sound right two you

wow, and I was going to buy a solar charging panel too, well, I'm turned off from it.